Music fills the streets

Pockets of happiness lie in waiting in the city blocks.

I’d just gone swimming in the basement of a downtown office complex. After, sitting on a bench, eating some kim-bap, a busload of old Korean ladies unloaded. Next thing I knew the driver was calling me into the bus. He asked me a bunch of questions in Korean that I could barely answer, and offered me plates of rice cakes and a bottle of beer. Then, he blasted some Korean old man’s music, which is kind of a mix of country & western and lounge with that bombastic energy of Bollywood music. He played it at such an inceredible volume — with the door and windows open, it must have filled the whole street. Then, he turned on the ignition, and hooked up the karaoke system. This guy was so cool that he put on a pair of sunglasses when he sang. On the monitor, images of Southern islands passed by, and what with the fake flower decor on the bus, I suddenly felt myself in tropical vacation mode. I stepped up to the mic. And belted out “Can’t Help Falling In Love,” “Can’t Take My Eyes Off of You,” and Kris Kristofferson’s “For The Good Times.” An awesome way to spend the afternoon. One of many awesome ways to spend an afternoon, I might say.

So many people want to practice their English on me, in Asia — but except for the rare moments, it seems like everyone’s missing the point of learning a language. The point of a new language is that when you meet someone at the blue, you’ve got the tools to communicate heart-to-heart — and in fact only the most broken language is needed.

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Sleep Me to the Hospital

(the strange dreams a traveler has … continued) Drifting through days of unreality. I had some mad dreams last night I can barely recall. Supposedly set in an exotic land called Turkey, in which these massive dinosaur-like animals were employed for construction purposes. Huge herds of 30 foot tall animals. Like 60 foot tall ostriches. We drove into a town, and all the buildings were so lushly colored in all kinds of bizarre shapes. I tried to film from video camera with one minute of tape left, and the pressing concern that the tape would be confiscated by the state.

I’m so tired. I need some time to recover my focus. I achieved some kind of clarity, but now I’m all disoriented again. I thought I had a new magazine all put together, but coming to Asia throws everything into disarray, makes everything that I was in the process of writing about seem so far away.

Ended up at this Chinese restaurant in the heart of the venture capital district. It blew my mind — shark, and obscure shellfish, and a cocunut milkshake for dessert, and a bill that would have been more than 25% of all the money I have in Korea, were I actually the one who paid. While the upwardly mobile of Seoul had a bite after work, the soundtrack drifted through big band tunes, and Louis Armstrong, and a whole bunch of Christmas songs (even though it’s April), like the one that begins, “chestnuts roasting by an open fire,” but not the Nat King Cole version.

If only I could settle down… I’m looking for a place to go into exile…

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Incheon

I flew into Seoul yesterday morning on a flight with a disproportionate number of Canadian military guys. Not sure where they were going.
The new international airport, Incheon, is an hour out of Seoul in the coolest landscape — innumerable tiny mountains highly vegetated with flat-as-a-board brown ground all imbetween them, all flanked by the ocean. Took the airport bus into Seoul, and passed through such a desolate apocalyptic landscape. Actually, the outskirts of Seoul look a lot more sci-fi than Tokyo. The city of Tokyo’s endless, but it’s also unimaginably flat, so if you’re stationary you can’t get a sense of its size — only when you’re on a train for hours, and you still can’t escape the seemingly endless blocks of 4-8 story buildings packed together and train stations that look exactly alike do you you get overwhelmed by Tokyo. In contrast, Korea’s got mountains everywhere, so the city’s constantly broken up. At the base of a certain mountain, there’s huge outcrops of very tall, identically un-designed apartment buildings that seem to exist in the middle of nowhere. Whereas, Japan has the perennial earthquake problems, and thus doesn’t have many tall buildings. The riverfront and bayside around Seoul seems to be desolate and barren. Endless construction sites and dirt and overhead freeways and smog. It’s a lot to take in after the slowness of Vancouver.

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Transition: Houston to Seoul

Looking back at some old tape. Found this tape where the footage begins in Okinawa, jumps to Seoul, then to Houston, and finally back to Seoul. Here I am in a car in Houston listening to Ann Peebles, and then through an edit on a freeway through the Incheon tidal plains of Korea.

Transition: Seoul to Houston

Here’s the transition a few months previous, when according to the tape, where I left Seoul at night and then arrive in Houston at night:

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The World is Not Enough Houston

Briefly, another day at the Houston museums worth commenting on. I went to the Science Museum today. Saw the coolest things. The biggest shell collection I’ve ever seen – a shell that looked practically amphibian, a shell looking like the spinal skeleton, a shell about three feet high, shells which seemed to be homing grounds for other shells, so you could these, like, shell constellations. Geographical origins were listed, and the place names set my mind adrift in reveries – South Africa, the Philippines, Australia, Marshall Island, Okinawa, Taiwan. Learned this new term, malacology, the study of mollusks. Watched this fascinating video on Japanese pearl-culturing techniques, which involved surgically inserting a piece of live tissue and a tiny ball into an oyster, and then cultivating that over thousands of hours.

Elsewhere, in the museum, was a mind-blowing mineral showcase. What I couldn’t understand is how I’ve gone a quarter of a century living on this earth without ever seeing rocks this strange in the nature I’ve encountered. Where do people dig these up? Origins listed as Ukraine, Pakistan, Wyoming, Namibia. Rocks of every color imaginable. Plus, these phosphorescent and fluorescent rocks. Amazing crystal formations.

Then, there was this greenhouse-contained tropical environment with thousands of butterflies, about 40-50 different species. The patterns of these butterflies were so varied and beautiful. One breed reminded me of the patterns of a peacock’s feathers. Another one’s wings appeared black, but a blueness seemed to spread across the wings like blood. Another butterfly had such a perfect design on the side – it looked like a Chinese black silk with a white and red petaled flower perfectly centered in the middle of the wing. They flew all around — three circled around me, as if they were dogfighting airplanes in an obscure flutter-style.

Outside the butterfly exhibit, there were these glass encasements with various breeds of cockroaches. Plus tarantulas and scorpions. There was a case of scarabs, and one of these with its wings spread out looked like it was mutated by a butterfly. Scarabs, themselves, are the living embodiment of gemstones.

On a different note, there was a temporary exhibition from the Forbidden Palace of Beijing. All kinds of memorabilia from the Qing dynasty in the 18th century. There were these broaches shaped from fireflies. Some kingfisher feathers integrated into the clothing, which never lost their turquoise color. There were massive musical instruments. And strange contraptions used for telling time. And a kind of fungi used as a decoration, with calligraphy on the back. This huge copper plate that had the constellations scratched into it.

Fantastic.

At a Houston art gallery, a few weeks back, I saw a display of sketches by Jackson Pollock. I couldn’t believe the massive scope of his drawing ability – these sketches that flung the imagination into parts of the mind occupied by mythology. I thought about this, while looking at the minerals today. Or, I thought about the strange textures of a Rauschenberg, or the perfect hues and saturation of Mark Rothko. All these paintings that I saw 2 weeks ago came back into my mind looking at these obscure pieces of nature.

If I sometimes think that the world is not enough, what I mean is that it is not exotic enough, that there is not enough to delight my senses. Have you ever read the 11th chapter of the Picture of Dorian Gray? It is my favorite. And yet I;m a little ashamed of myself. I’m far too uncultivated to be a proper aesthete or a refined sensualist. Too bound up by an everyday life that never brings me face-to-face with scarabs or phosphorescent rocks. These things seem to belong another world. I know nothing about them, but it pleases me to think that beyond the sky, there may be entire planets that are phosphorescent.

I left the museum at 3:30, in order to beat rush hour traffic. I drove through Houston on the Katy freeway – a road that is now about 10 lanes that they will soon be expanding to 24 lanes, because it’s the most congested road in Houston.

I went to see Traffic at a local area megaplex a few nights ago. I walked through the empty mall to get to the 9:50 showing. There was no one around, but all of the amusements from the mall were still flashing. I came into the theatre and no one else was there. The sneak previews were just starting. It’s interesting to know that a movie still gets played regardless of the presence of an audience. After the movie, which was staggeringly good (by the way, I was recently reading about some real-life situation of a Mexican politician using his property to smuggle cocaine, while holding anti-drug summits on the same real estate, that hosted Bill Clinton and other dignitaries), I waited for the music credits – I could hear a theatre employee, jangling his keys, waiting for me to exit, so they could close the megaplex.

Earlier in the day, in the local post office, I inquired about sending something to England by mailbag. The employees were convinced that this mail service was available only for church organizations.

Houston is definitely a strange place.

Flying into Houston, almost a month ago, I couldn’t believe how green it looked, a kind of glowing green, and it seemed to be rainforest-like. And the clouds were in the strangest formations interspersed at all levels of the atmosphere, reflecting the colors in the strangest way. While the plane, the grass along the landing strip seemed to be fluorescent. But the city I could see the ground seems to bear no resemblance to the landscape I saw from the sky.

Though on the night I left the megaplex, I could hear this symphony of animals and insects in the night, beyond the endless parking lot since my car was the only car in the parking lot, I actually thought that somehow a Fourth World CD was booming from the car stereo.

In Houston, occasionally, palm trees surround businesses and restaurants. They’e obviously transplanted here, yet the balmy environment supports them.

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The Invisible World

A daunting spiked suit is worn by mannequin. In a glass cabinet, a fake Aztec sculpture resembles the face of Mickey Mouse. Elsewhere, about twelve small, tropical birds are attached to strings, which hang from a dance collar of South American Tanagers. Drawings of a psychiatric patient hang on the walls next to the Breton photo. A strange wolf-head sculpture from the Kwakiutli tribe on the Central coast of British Columbia. Auction catalogues. A phenakistoscope, which is 19th century technology that evolved into the first motion picture projector.

What do all these things have in common? They appear in an exhibit called “Witnesses to a Surrealist Vision” — all of the objects were either owned by the surrealists or similar to those that they collected.

This exhibit is housed through an opening in an out-of-the-way corner of the Surrealist’s installation of the Menil Museum in Houston, Texas. In more ways than once, I almost missed it (both the modestly Renzo Piano-designed museum and the Witness exhibit) — but I’m so glad I didn’t, because this seems to be one of the most inspiring encounters I’ve had in my limited triestes into the world of the fine arts. I wonder to myself why it is so impressive. I’ve been to museums of native art before, and my eyes glaze over — I can’t understand it. And I’ve walk through a million art galleries with a mind as numb as my feet. But what captured me about this room was the juxtapositions. Suddenly, in contrast to all the other strange objects in the room, everything became clear. I felt in touch with a world that is reality, but the reality we can’t see, the reality that everyday life denies, the everyday life that surrealism banged against. Subterranean realities rose to the surface.

An hour earlier, I was enjoying the soothing warmth of the Rothko Chapel, just down the road. This octagonal chapel was commissioned by Dominic de Menil, the wife of a Texas oil baron Together, this couple cultivated one of the greatest art collections in the world, and the best one that I’ve personally encountered.

Dominique de Menil was, until her death 3 years ago, one of the greatest patrons the art world has ever known — by all accounts, such an eccentric and inspirational lady. Her love spills through the collection she left behind, and the nearby buildings, which along with the Rothko Chapel includes a restore Byzantine church with its frescoes intact.

In 1964, the couple asked the artist Mark Rothko to create a chapel. Rothko is an artist you can’t appreciate until you see his work — he has paintings that are entirely orange or entirely yellow, yet because of the layering and the texture and the depths and the shades, you can stare at his paintings for hours. Rothko, in collaboration with the architect Philip Johnson, created an octagonal chapel with black paintings all around it. A soft reverb emanates through the chapel, “like the shells children place to their ears to listen to the sound of the sea, they induce the sound of a soundless ocean,” says the brochure. The minimalist composer Morton Feldman composed music for this place, and another minimalist musician Steve Reich performed here. And the Whirling Dervishes from Turkey perform here. And in 1979, the Dalai Lama visited here. And whenever he comes to Houston, ex-President Jimmy Carter preaches here. In fact, Menil and Carter established an humanitarian organization together.
I’ve done a search on the web tonight, and read about Dominique de Menil, and I know I read about her in a magazine, perhaps New Yorker, years ago, and she seems so full of energy and life and love.

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Museum of Fine Arts Houston

I was surprised that I could use my camera inside the museum. Didn’t really know how to film things or why I was filming things. Was I filming to remind myself later, like a notepad, in that way a still camera would function better – but with the movement of my hand, zooms, the blurry camera, there’s still a sense of movement here. Can we create something new in filming a painting? I think I was somehow hoping that something would suddenly happen within the painting, but I suppose the event is supposed to happen in my mind, not the camera’s mind.

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Mystery Cargo

Now, it’s late February 2001, and I’ve found myself back in Vancouver. Pretty exhausted — grateful for the assistance of friends that have made my homeless life possible, but tired of depending on people for shelter and food, and never having my own private place to generate new writing or music. I go out to clubs, not because I want to, but because I have to hang around until the person I’m staying with also goes home.
I waited for my friend to get down to this club, where we ended up standing about 3 hours in line to see a show by the world famous DJ Qbert from San Francisco, and then failed to even get into the show.
My friend explained the story of Qbert to me. Apparently, this guy was in some kind of accident, and was immobile for an extended period of time, and spent most of that time on the turntables. Now, he walks around with a cane, but he’s now in a class of his own amongst DJs. He won the DMC world DJ championships several years straight, until he was asked not to compete anymore.
And so now, I’m going around Vancouver collecting my stuff, trying to figure out what I’ll do with it. Yesterday, I picked up 4 boxes from my friend’s place — 4 boxes of nothing that I’ll ever need in the future. There was a filing cabinet full of press releases of albums that came out years ago. There was a grey wooden box that I’d remembered to contain personal matters, like pictures and letters, but I found it empty. And there were 2 boxes of 8-tracks — the remnants of an easy listening collection dating back to the 1960s — which I paid way too much money for. I’ll probably give the 8-tracks away, and if I’m ever looking for the samples, I’m sure there’s some internet radio station where I can find this stuff. Anyway, there’s never going to be an end of flea markets with Ray Coniff records selling for $1.

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Chongno 3ga

I haven’t filmed much yet in Seoul. The streets are busy. It’s cold. I don’t know where to stand. The city’s full of life and sound and smells. Sidewalks lined with food stands, music coming from street vendors selling CDs.

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