Wakayama Nachikatsuura Scenes

the shorter 5-vignette version

the extended raw footage (3-minutes)

We took a one-night trip to the bottom of Wakayama prefecture this weekend. Wakayama is the prefecture south immediately to the south of Osaka. Most of the prefecture is pretty off the beaten track and was even more off the beaten track before Kansai Airport was built. The furthest south most Japanese tourists seem to get is the onsen/beach resort area of Shirahama, about halfway down the eastern Wakayama coast.
We rode along bending, beautiful coastal roads, with sight-lines only marred by a little more coastal concrete barriers than you’d like to see. We took a combination of local JR trains and hitchhiked. Lighthouses, crows, small fishing towns could be seen through rain-streaked windows. I don’t surf myself, but I’ve heard that Katsuura is one of the better surf spots in this part of Japan (as I’ve written elsewhere, I’m always impressed by this patience here in Japan to wait for small waves at crowded surf spots).
We eventually got down south to a small, budget ryokan. The next day we were met by the father of a teacher I work with in Osaka. He is a tour guide in the area. He took us to Nachi Falls, such a beautiful waterfall, where even the moss and the surrounding rocks seem like they could not be better placed. Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine is here – it is one of the first three Kumano shrines, from which 3000 other Kumano shrines in Japan are said to originate. Our guide explained to us that more than a 1000 years ago, Paekche Koreans arrived here. Apparently, in ancient times, there was a concentration of Koreans in the Nara area north of here. Frankly, I couldn’t fully understand the explanation I was hearing as it was in Japanese, and searching for extra details on the net certainly consumes some time.
On the way back to Osaka, we ended up stuck on the side of the highway as it was getting dark. It was drizzling and I began to worry that we wouldn’t get picked up, and it seemed like trains were hardly running. Fortunately, someone picked us up – a man pretty keen to practice his very limited English, and not open to the idea that I might somehow be able to converse in Japanese. Much appreciated ride, though. Saved us, in fact.

Update: I just watched the Cove, the documentary about an annual dolphin slaughter. Many of the places looked familiar. Looking at a map, I realize the Nachikatsuura area immediately surrounds the town of Taiji, where the documentary the Cove (about an annual dolphin slaughter) was made. It’s such a beautiful, spiritual place. I hope the nearby town will find a way to prosper and that the dolphins will be left alone.

Update: It’s early 2010, and I’ve just seen the Cove, the documentary film about the dolphin slaughter. I realized as I watched this film that it must surely have been made in the same area. I then looked at the map, and could see that the Taiji fishing village is basically it’s own administrative zone, bordered on all sides (except the coastal side) by the Nachikatsuura district.

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Pacific Inconstant

filmed in Kauai, Hawaii – January 2003 – with a passage from Maugham somehow coming to mind … “The Pacific is inconstant a”The Pacific is inconstant and uncertain like the soul of man and uncertain like the soul of man.” – Somerset Maugham

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Cinematic Orchestra Interview

This interview with Cinematic Orchestra was done backstage in Osaka in September 2002. It has been edited down to about 12 minutes in length, focusing on their collaborative work with Fontella Bass, live improvisation vs. studio editing, and their soundtracking of “Man With A Movie Camera.”
The interview was done for my old magazine Space Age Bachelor magazine (space-age-bachelor.com), The magazine had already pretty much faded out of existence before I did this interview, but at the time I was trying to resuscitate it as a DVD magazine. That never took off, and it would be 2010 before I’d get my act together to put this interview out to the public. I really enjoyed editing this, and from my own perspective I think it was worth the wait.

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Japan 2 Tunisia 0

I dug up this footage from my old camera from June 2002 – Wes shot the footage in downtown Osaka after Japan beat Tunisia to advance to the round of 16. The scenes were filmed near Dotonbori bridge, famous for the revelers who often jump off after Japan or an Osaka team wins a big game. Japan didn’t win the next game, so this was really the peak of things as far World Cup 2002 concerned Japan. Would have liked to seen how big the party would be if they went further like South Korea did.

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England Ennui With A Price

I headed over to Nagai Stadium in downtown Osaka this afternoon where England was playing Nigeria in the World Cup. I hung around outside, amongst random Japanese wearing Beckham shirts, flirtatious and curious passerby. The Japanese media has rattled on and on about the British hooligans and the megaphone posses were there to shout out warnings incessantly – in Japanese, mind you. The game ended in a goalless draw. There’s these Mastercard ad campaigns with the ‘priceless’ slogan – well, for the England fans I saw leaving the stadium, who no doubt racked up their credit cards to get here, ‘listless’ would be a better motto. They had all the vigor filing out of the stadium as a throng of people commuting home to London suburbs after a long day of work.

I like Sylvia Plath’s game summary best with its references to ‘futures where nothing will occur’ and the ‘compelling hero’s dull career’ in crisis.

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Sensational, Mentallica, and Wordsound

coming soon

5.31 (fri) Flying Swimming
live: KID606(TIGERBEAT6/IPECEC from California,U.S.),LESSER(TIGERBEAT6 from California,U.S.),
____SPECTRE(WORDSOUND from NYC),
____SENSATIONAL(WORDSOUND/MATADOR/IPECEC from U.S.A.),
____MENTOL NOMAD(WORDSOUND/IPECEC from U.S.A.),
____KOUHEI(Flying Swimming, Mille Plateaux/TIGERBEAT6/RLE/HMW),
____Rudolf Eb.Er(SELEKTION/TOCHNIT ALEPH/SCHMPFLUCH GRUPPE),
____LIDDIKOATIGHT(Flying Swimming)
DJs: DJ YAS(TIGHT,KEMURI PRODUCTIONS/煙突つレコーディング from Tokyo),
___1945(クラナカ+ARI,Zettai-Mu/TIGHT, ex-d.t DUM still DUM from Kyoto), DJ IMANY
movie: ‘CROOKED’ (directed by S.H. Fernand Jr. a.k.a. SPECTRE)
23:00- @ CLUB ROCKETS (大阪市浪速区難波中2-8-31なんばPIER6025
/6025 Namba PIER,2-8-31,Namba-Naka,Naniwa-ku,Osaka,06-6649-3919)
adv:3000yen,door:3500yen
●Flying Swimming
●abstract,音響,techno,hiphop

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Conversation with a monk

In Seoul for a few days. Was walking pretty aimlessly through its Chongno area – one of its main downtown streets (well, there are lots of downtowns here). Went to a music store in the basement of the YBM building. I noticed a monk there, browsing CDs – you wouldn’t expect to see a monk in a music store, let alone a Caucasian one. I ended up buying a bunch of VCDs, the 3 colors trilogy, a few Jet Li movies, and a Buena Vista Social Club discount box set.
I left the store and walked through the nearby Insadong area, where there’s lots of traditional Korean shops and restaurants – it’s one of my favorite areas, even though I know it’s done up for tourists to a large degree, and most of the Koreans I know would hardly come here.
I walked into a back alley, and took some video of a junkyard, came back to the main street where I came across the monk again. We nodded to each other, and he asked, ‘Fancy a cup of tea?’
So, lately, I’d been thinking I should start recording my thoughts to an MD recorder and given my history of interviewing musicians, I was inspired to ask if he minded if I recorded our conversation. I’ve forgotten his name.
Here is part of the transcription:

Monk: This is a holiday. Tomorrow we have to go back. So I just came home to relax. We just had 7 days holiday. So it’s short and fast. Basically, you can go to any temple that you like, and they’ll put you up for some time. It’s usually for two or three days. It’s part of the culture that you move on during the travel period. They sometimes give you money for your next bus ticket.
Me: The bus is really cheap here.
Monk: Yeah, I was really shocked. It’s so cheap… When we finish our retreats, we get some money from the temple to get clothes and medicine and basic necessities of life. And you need to live on that money while you travel around for the next three weeks. You can get up to a million won. So, you get this ridiculous wad of money that you don’t know what to do with. You feel like some kind of mugger or big gambler.
(We talk about how things are cheaper in Korea than where we’ve come from. But some prices are out-of-wack, some things expensive, some things cheap. I showed him the VCDs I bought, and he recognized certain things, and knew for instance that Ry Cooder produced some of the Buena Vista Social Club songs.)
Monk: I used to — before I became a monk — buy a lot of music and listen to it. I had no intention of buying anything when I went in there today, so I was kind of just walking around, looking at my old life in a way. We don’t get any news or anything in the temple, so seeing what new music was doing, not that you can really get a feel from that — seeing the old artists that I used to like, and seeing what they’re doing now.
(I talk about I also used to be really into music, but after moving to Japan, other things came up in my life, and little by little I’d been forgetting a lot of the music trivia I knew. We realize that we’re both around 25 years old.)
Me: You can date-stamp when foreigners came here by what they’re wearing.
Monk: So, I guess I’ve got this 1999 London smell about me. Sometimes, I hear a song on the radio, which was out in London at the time, before I left to become a monk, so I feel very nostalgic. A monk’s life is about transformation, not really transforming our minds, but transforming our bad habits to good habits. That might sound crazy, but it’s not. It’s just about becoming a decent person, changing your negative mind into a positive mind.
Me: I can understand that on a basic level, thinking about smoking, which I occasionaly do. There are some positive effects from it, but still it has a negative side. I feel I can redirect that energy to get the positive effects in other ways.
Monk: Well, this is what monastic life is. It’s redirecting the habits and the energy that remains from the old habits, you redirect it into new habits, and a new way of looking at the world, and a new way of interacting with the world, no longer just living for yourself, but also living for the people around you. So, there are very strong habit-changing exercises that we do — the first one is meditation. We do these exercises everyday, to change the way that we are, or to be able to watch the way that we are, and be able to redirect the negative energy. I guess that’s a better way to put it, especially since I’m on tape now — I should try to put things as eloquently as I can.
Me: I have that problem, too, talking into the tape. But there’s something so permanent about writing on paper. I want to get the ideas out in another way, to loosen things up.
Monk: Have you ever heard of a Japanese poet called Basho? He was a haiku poet. He practiced zen. So, he said that a poet, someone who writes, someone who is creative, he said that the first thing that they have to have is singleness of mind, single pointedness of mind. They have to become one with nature. If you don’t have this one-ness with nature — from this one-ness, you get the spontaneity of the mind — then you can never really put your ideas down on paper, whatever you record will always be in the past. but if you have this oneness, this spontaneity of mind, this oneness with nature, then whatever you record will be timeless, spaceless … This oneness of nature is understanding the foundations of nature, isn’t it? Or rather than understanding, it’s apprehending, this intuitive knowing, like this table, it’s knowing that ‘table’ is just a ‘label,’ and it’s more than just a table, it’s a collection of atoms and molecules, which are constantly moving. Even though we see this thing as solid, it is constantly in flux. Right? We call this solid, but it’s actually a liquid, even though we don’t know that. But, when you explore the nature of your mind, the nature of reality, and the nature of life, you see that all these things that are around us are in a constant of flux, in a constant state of change. This thing is created from conditions. Firstly, you have the wood, which was created by the sun, the moon, the wind, the water, all these kind of things, and then you have the carpenter who made this table, so the table came into being, and now, as you can see by the graffiti on the table, it’s in a state of decline, decay. And if we put it on a fire, then it will be completely burnt. I think if we bear in mind, that the whole of our lives, that our bodies are doing exactly the same thing as this building. Even though we are just 25 or 26 years old, the body is just decaying, even though it’s growing, there’s cells which are constantly reproducing, dividing and reproducing. It’s always changing. But, basically, are body is always getting older, and decaying, and heading towards our deaths. So, the body is doing that, and the mind is also changing according to the condition, and to the habits, and to the environment. But there is something within all this, which maybe doesn’t change.
Me: What would that be?
Monk: Well, we can’t put a name on that, and we can’t actually say that it’s a definite thing. We call it the essence of the mind, but you can’t really say that the essence of the mind is a real thing, because if you look, we’re just a series of conditions, a series of relationships. It was the sperm and the ovum originally, and then there’s this magical thing, called mind, this magical thing which is able to talk, which is able to perceive, to feel hungry, or to feel tired or sleepy, to feel all these things. But, we don’t know what this thing is. So, this is what the oneness with nature is about, finding out what this thing is, and whether it is a thing, or whether it is not a thing, or whether it is something that is permanent, or not permanent, or something which arises and falls away, like everything else in nature.
Me: I haven’t studied Buddhism. But I’ve given some thought to these things or heard about this. I do find it somewhat freeing to realize that in the scale of it all – to be a grain of sand is rather than debilitating me or killing my desire to do something, it is freeing and enabling. I think as an artist to do something, the artist needs to simultaneously make their ego huge and small. Some people place far too much importance on what they’re doing and it chokes them…
Monk: Chokes the thing itself, because it’s the thing of what I’m doing, you’ve got that ‘i’ there, but if you have this direct relationship with nature, then you see that you’re just a condition, so you just have the thing which is being done. You just have the thing which is going on at that moment, and you have nothing else going on. You’ve got no ‘I’. If I’m writing, you’ve just got the paper and the pen, and the contact of the paper and the pen, and the pen with the hand, and that’s what you’ve got …

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Shopping in the end times

In Toronto. My brother Jason and I got up early that morning to check out a 10 AM screening at the Toronto International Film Festival. The movie was Buffalo Soldiers starring Joaquin Phoenix, Anna Pacquin, and Scott Glenn. The movie’s not been sold to a distributor yet, and it’s certainly not the sort of movie that’s ever going to be shown when America’s at war. Set on a base in East Germany in 1989, Buffalo Soldiers paints a very black portrait of the American military. It’s hilarious and hysterical and alarming and even sexy — a wicked scene where Phoenix and Pacquin do ecstacy together at a club, while on the soundtrack New Order’s “Blue Monday” sounds better than ever. Everyone on the base is either a crack/heroin user or a supplier. Nightclubs are shown with unofficially military sanctioned prostitutes in the milieu (a reality of US military life that I’m sure no one mentions on American TV). After the movie, there was supposed to be a Q&A with the director — but it was announced that the director was stuck in traffic, and shortly it would be clear this was not the real reason for the director’s absence.
The streets of Toronto seemed emptier and quieter than usual. My bro and I wandered into a shopping mall to check messages. There was a mysterious message from our mom, saying that our other brother had called to check up, and she was letting us know that her and my dad were safe, and told us not to worry.
I first saw the news in the electronics department of the Eatons department store. It was impossible to comprehend. Just recently, I was telling someone that one of the best memories of my whole life was taking the ferry from Battery Park, Manhattan to Staten Island (only because I didn’t have enough money to go up the Empire State Building, and I had a metro pass, so the ferry ride was free). It was nighttime. The ferry passed by the Statue of Liberty. I was thinking about the Wu-Tang Clan, who came from Staten Island. A kid with a boombox was blasting Jay-Z’s “It’s A Hard Knock Life.” I went out on the deck of the ferry, and absolutely marveled at the twin towers of the World Trade Centre, the stars of the New York night scene. They were (and I can’t believe I’m using the past tense) so beautiful, such a marvel of human achievement. I hope they really did lay great bases for eternity.
The next few hours, my bro and I walked around. I looked into the faces of the people I met. It was as if you could see who’d heard the news and who hadn’t heard the news. It felt then, like the end of the world, like Armaggedon … and I thought, “it’s a self-fulfilling prophecy.” Revelation, the last chapter of the Bible, doesn’t have to be true, but it certainly seems like it’s being encouraged. Prophecy’s better left unwritten. I hope people don’t forget that it’s an open book. Even as I’m hopeless, I hold onto hope. I have faith, but I don’t where to place it.
In conversations with people, it’s clear that the movies we’ve watched have become something like the lens through which we comprehend the world. Different movies come up. But one that keeps popping back into my mind is the Fight Club, in which the buildings of 15 major credit companies were blown up – and it was beautiful. And it was okay to think that it was beautiful, because the movie made it clear that nobody was in those buildings. The Fight Club was a fantasy, a projection of conscious and unconscious desires.
Today, on a televised radio talk show, I watched the mayor of New York Guiliani speak. Asked how people could help, Guiliani’s message was basically: shop, shop, and shop some more. And it’s clear that the economy’s in peril, and hence the livelihood and lifestyles of virtually everyone are in peril.
It’s certainly a surreal time to be banking.
This economy’s obviously not working. It’s a sick system. There’s enough furniture in warehouses somewhere. We don’t need more. There’s enough CDs. There’s enough duffel bags. There’s enough duvets. There’s enough desks. There’s enough books. There’s enough sweatpants. There’s enough t-shirts with company logos. We don’t need to produce more. We just need to redistribute. Believe me — there’s enough to go around.
But, whatever … I don’t want to be negative … and who am I to talk? I haven’t done much either way. And I don’t want to use this as my excuse — but isn’t there something paralyzing about this age we live in? It’s complex. Too many obtuse angles. Too much reflection and refraction. And concave mirrors. I almost have a nervous breakdown trying to buy stationary.

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Chaos and Light

I bought this postcard in Korea of a painting of a young Buddha, sitting on the peak of a cliff above the sea, in the moment just after the sun goes down, and he catches a shooting star across the sky.
You know I once heard that at a certain moment of a perfect sunset, you can witness a green flash across the sky. This is one of these bits of wisdom that I might have heard in a dream.
Something fantastic and wonderful — a small motel near the sea on the East Coast of Korea. The ocean at night — the white crests still visible. A small road along the ocean — a tall, barbwire-capped fence running the length of it — the barbwired South Korean coast, which keeps the North out. Night is over. The brilliant sun glittering and scattering over the rough surface of the ocean.
I’ve been lonely. I saved up all the things I would say to the next one, and then the next one came, and I said all those things I was saving up, and then I wasn’t anymore. But now I’m juggling the promise of happiness with the threat to my freedom.
Some music doesn’t let itself be listened to. It takes the listener over. It spaces me out, and my mind drifts into places it hasn’t been, the cobwebs of the mind get cleared, it cleanses the brain, it washes over you.
These are just a few of the things that crossed my mind tonight, entranced by the concert of Sigur Ros, a quartet from Iceland, who played Massey Hall in Toronto.
The Sigur Ros singer tends to not sing in English or Icelandic. Just these warbled, angelic phrasings.
Earlier this year, I found a lot of pleasure in listening to Sigur Ros, while reading a book that I think was called Chaos & Light.
I love walking in the open air, when you feel a cool breeze, and you get that sensation of breathing through your eyelids. Tonight, the air conditioner came on in the auditorium, and I felt that cool, breathy feeling in my eye lids.
The lighting was brilliant. Conjured up all kinds of effects. The guitarist’s arms were all red, and this idea caught in my brain. I imagined music on another planet. Alien lifeforms forming a band. A giant blob on the stage with a dozen limbs that could break into smaller components, which could then scatter to the different instruments. One blob playing a symphony with a million limbs.
Sigur Ros make music for that meltdown that so rarely occurs. That moment of ecstacy … Something that bewilders the senses. It’s music that refuses to be remembered, pulls you to deeply into the moment.

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